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Afghan fare’s nod to the West

By Cam Lucadou-Wells

What would you choose – the chicken parma or the traditional Afghan lamb shank qabuli?
Such is the bold menu that confronts diners at Samadi’z in Noble Park with traditional Afghan kebabs served with chips and green salad.
Or pits diametrically-opposed options such as mantu dumplings or bruchetta.
Interestingly, Assma Samadi says it’s the traditional food cooked by her father – known simply as ‘Mr Samadi’ – which is getting the most takers.
She says a lot of diners from the non-Afghan community are giving Mr Samadi’s offerings a go because it’s served in such a Western manner.
For 20 years, Mr Samadi has gathered a lofty reputation, catering for weddings and celebrations of up to 1000 people.
The recently-opened cafe-restaurant is the first time he shares with the masses his exquisite skills such as his beautifully crafted dumplings sauced with tomato, corn, yoghurt and mint.
A must-try is the qabuli – a meltingly-soft lamb shank astride a Basmati rice mountain, sultanas and strips of carrot, or the lightly-spiced mince kebabs.
There’s a varied breakfast menu including haleem porridge and a spread of scrambled or fried egg dishes – served with salmon and hollandaise, bruchetta and avocado, or a ‘big breakfast’ version with ciabatta, sausage and mushrooms.
Assma creates the more Western fare such as thickly-layered chicken parma coated in a thick crust of melted cheese and Napoli sauce.
Dine Local observed that this pub fare favourite was the go-to for a couple of tradies sitting in the cafe’s sophisticated designer furniture.
Assma, who recently gained a pilot licence, has high-flying plans for the family business and further as an entrepreneur.
Already, word of mouth seems to have spread as far as Collingwood Football Club.
Its star midfielder Adam Treloar recently visited for a feed from both the Western and Afghan sides of the menu.
Assam said that Treloar did as many diners seem to be doing, “he tried a bit of everything”.

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