By CAM LUCADOU-WELLS
IT’S nearly a crime that glorious dishes can be priced the same as a 7-11 sandwich.
Chilly Bowl chef and owner Baiju Jacob has been plying his trade in his home country India as well as in the Lebanon, Bahrain and Australia for 22 years.
At the Dandenong licensed restaurant, his mastery of north and south Indian cuisine is apparent.
He provides a soaring variety of curries, unique breads – such as the spider-web thin rice and coconut-milk hoppers – and several chillies that are rarely found in an Australian restaurant.
Mr Jacob’s meals have a home-cooked touch, inspired by many hours growing up in his mother’s kitchen.
Yet mains at lunch and dinner start at a too-humble $5.
“Dandenong’s a competitive place for restaurants,” Mr Jacob explains.
One shining example of this food’s quality is the lemon pickle side-bowl – it bites and zings with surreal citric flavour and alkalinity.
There’s the plentiful ‘beef roast’ – a generous bowl of beef squares soaking in a rich green chilli and curry leaf sauce.
It’s served with a paratha bread – a mix of yoghurt, milk and sugar cooked on a hotplate and that crumbles like a good shortcut pastry.
Eaten by hand with the bread, the dish is like a deconstructed meat pie – though pies rarely come so flavoursome and so laden with meat.
Its chilli heat creeps up – it doesn’t so much hit the tongue but warms the belly.
The kappa and Spanish mackerel curry is another highlight. This packs a dry, instant chilli hit with generous chunks of fish – and a curious coffee undertone.
It’s served with a soothing tamarind and coconut-infused potato side-dish.
The popular chicken biriyani is a mountain of basmati rice and fresh mint and coriander. Inside its cavern is a rich, spicy gravy with three pieces of fried chicken.
It’s accompanied by the zesty lemon pickle and a raita yoghurt with tomato, onion and green chilli.
Another Chilly Bowl wonder is the enormous rice crepe such as the vegetarian masala dosa which is filled with potato thapioca and comes with a side of mixed vegetable sambal and coconut chutney.
This restaurant is another one of those Dandenong food treasures – surprisingly cheap of great quality and ingenuity. It’s quickly becoming a cult classic.
Chilly Bowl is open at 1/24 Langhorne Street, Dandenong, Tuesdays-Sundays noon-9.45pm.
Home deliveries of up to $40 food are free within seven kilometres.
Order at chillybowldandenong.com.au or phone 9793 9797.
